A Guerlain Addict's Collection + Mini Reviews

Even though I've been into fragrance for many years, I paid Guerlain no mind for the longest time - they just weren't on my radar. The journey down the rabbit hole started when I stumbled into Mlle Antoniette's Parfumerie in Disneyland and got my nose on Neroli Outrenoir. The rest, as they say, is history.

Below is my collection with everything listed in the order shown, along with mini reviews for standouts at the bottom.

Any other Guerlain lovers out there? I'd love to hear your favorites!

1st Row

  • Angelique Noire
  • Bois d'Armenie
  • Cuir Beluga
  • Iris Torrefie
  • Spiritueuse Double Vanille

2nd Row

  • Shalimar EDT 1980s
  • Shalimar EDT
  • Shalimar Philtre
  • Shalimar EDP
  • Shalimar Millesime Vanilla Planifolia
  • Shalimar Millesime Tonka
  • Shalimar Parfum
  • Neroli Outrenoir
  • Joyeuse Tubereuse

3rd Row

  • Vol de Nuit Parfum
  • Shalimar Parfum 1960s
  • Jicky Parfum
  • L'Heure Bleue Parfum
  • Mitsouko Parfum
  • Mitsouko Parfum 1979
  • Liu
  • Encens Mythique
  • Santal Royal
  • Samsara EDT
  • Samsara EDP

4th Row

  • Apres l'Ondee
  • Chamade
  • Jicky EDP
  • L'Heure Bleue EDP
  • L'Heure Bleue EDT
  • Mitsuoko EDP
  • Mitsuoko EDT
  • Nahema
  • Vol de Nuit

A few standouts in alphabetical order:

Angelique Noire - A duel that pits the piercingly and unapologetically verdant angelica against the smooth and ivory Guerlain vanilla that dries down to a melange of pastel greens. A member of my Holy Trinity of Guerlain vanilla, and IMO Daniela Andrier's magnum opus.

Apres l'Ondee - A sheer watercolor of powdery violet and iris. Said to resemble the smell of a spring garden after a downpour and named as such, I’d say they captured it perfectly. Ethereal and fleeting, much like the spring rain, it borders on the line between palpable and intangible.

Cuir Beluga - Ultra smooth suede laid atop Guerlain vanilla, with touches of powderiness from heliotrope and spiciness from immortelle. Another member of the Holy Trinity, and a fall staple.

Iris Torrefie - Creamy and buttery iris, the luscious texture further bolstered by cardamom and vanilla, with a slight toasted note resembling light-medium roasted coffee beans. The end result is an iris infused latte with vanilla syrup and cardamom powder sprinkled on top. One thing I'll note is that Iris Torrefie is extra sensitive to dosage, to my nose at least. When over-sprayed, the creaminess is lost and the texture becomes fuzzy and grating. Less is more with Iris Torrefie.

Jicky - Introduced in 1889, the same year as the completion of the Eiffel Tower. It was the first fragrance to use synthetic materials - courmanin and vanillin, in addition to natural extracts. An aromatic opening with rosemary and lavender, with touches of bergamot, eventually drying down to an amber vanilla base. The story goes that Aimé Guerlain created Jicky in honor and namesake of a young woman he fell in love with while studying in London, another version is that it was dedicated to his nephew Jacques "Jicky" Guerlain. I prefer the latter as Jacques Guerlain later went on to create Shalimar, which shares an undeniably familiar resemblance with Jicky.

Mitsouko - A classic, and surely the reference chypre at this point. Peach, oakmoss, and a touch of powdery spices. The EDT is more luminous and citric; the EDT denser, sweeter, and mossier. The Parfum is hauntingly beautiful, able to invoke involuntary rolling of the eyes to the back of the head upon each wearing.

Shalimar - Final member of the Holy Trinity. Lemon and bergamot opening, a floral heart of iris, and an amber and vanilla base. I started with the EDP and was at first put off by the astringent and almost bombastic opening, but over time I’ve grown to love it. Shalimar is known for its grunge - leather, incense, and animatic touches in the amber base that can be found in every permutation. The EDT and Philtre have the grunge dialed way back, as do the newest flankers of Vanilla Planifolia and Tonka. The EDP has a good amount of grunge and it’s a great starting point for beginners to Shalimar. The modern Parfum is my favorite, a symphony of the best parts of Shalimar and an indulgent treat to dab on before going to bed. The vintage Parfum is an iron fist in a velvet glove. The top notes don’t quite slap you in the face like the modern version since they had decades to mellow out, but the passage of time has resulted in a drydown that is the olfactory equivalent of a gut punch in amorous obscenity.

Vol de Nuit - Named after the second novel by French author and aviator Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, Vol de Nuit (night flight). The eponymous imagery is conjured by notes of galbanum, iris, narcissus, and oak moss for a creation redolent of the crisp night air. Like Apres l'Ondee, it is ethereal and fleeting, though it is a bit longer lasting. Wonderful on hot summer days.